My Trip to Budapest, Hungary

I had the chance to spend a weekend in Budapest with my friends Jim and Shane. It was a sweet deal as Shane had secured a room using his Marriott and Hilton points so my largest expense was for my flights. But after searching the Internet for a few days I was greatly disappointed as I could not find a flight lower that $600.00 round trip. On the Saturday before I stopped by a travel agency in Krakow and secured a direct flight for $250.00. I was now ecstatic as my trip to Budapest was to become a reality.

I flew out on Friday October 7th and landed before 7 p.m. I queued for the taxi and waited patiently as I was 8th in line. As luck would have it, the taxi stand clerk realized that the next taxi was also going to the Hilton so she moved me up to be with two men from England.

After meeting up with the guys in the room, we headed out to see the city at sundown, (A note about the room. It was the finest room I had ever stayed in. There were 3 levels, two TVs, 1 ½ baths, a queen-sized bed and a living room with a pull-out sofa bed. I was assigned this bed and you can figure out the rest.)

Budapest was formed from 3 cities that were later joined. The Danube River separates the Buda side from the Pest side. The Hilton was on the Buda side of Budapest and was built next to the ruins of a 14th century church. In fact, the ruins are incorporated into the hotel and serve as an outdoor patio for special events. That first night saw a wedding and reception being held there.

As we walked along the parapet of the city we were able to view the Pest side illuminated by the colors of the setting sun behind us. It was beautiful. Across the Danube we saw the Parliament, the same one you saw on the news just a few weeks back during the coverage of the riots in Budapest.

Although those riots were over with there still were active outdoor rallies taking place around the city. We could even hear one from our position. This was also the 50th anniversary weekend of the October 1956 Budapest Uprising. Just like in Warsaw, Poland the Soviets sent in tanks and killed a slew of people. So between the two events there were lots of Hungarian flags being carried around. We even saw a parade of cars carrying banners of what looked to be the Communist party.

We walked off the hill and over the Chain Bridge to the Pest side as we were looking for a specific restaurant to have dinner in. But first we stopped at a sidewalk café along a pedestrian street to sample some fine Hungarian beer. What, you never heard of Hungarian beer? Well, Hungary is better known for its wine industry but our first sample of local piwo was good.

So there we sat watching the tourists and listening for English being spoken. After a while we realized that we had watched the same two women walk by about 4 or 5 times. They just seemed to be walking the stretch of the street looking for someone. They were well-dressed and sort of blended in except that by their third pass we had noticed them. We discussed them and then put it out of our mind. But after leaving the café and walking further up the street we began to be approached by several ladies asking us for a smoke, or to buy them a drink or even a meal at a local place. It then dawned on me that in Rick Steve’s Guide to Eastern Europe, he mentions that the prostitutes in Budapest employ a similar tactic to attract their customers. And this was on a busy tourist street. So, chalk up another first in my life; being propositioned on a street by a hooker.

On Saturday we began the day w/ kawa and apple cake in a local coffee shop. We then climbed Gellert Hill to the Citadel so that we could see the beautiful panorama of Budapest. The hill is the highest point in the city and it was a bear to climb. Although there was a paved path, it was still brutal for the three of us. (And I walk four miles a day in Krakow.) At the top is The Citadel which was built in 1851 by the Hapsburgs to demonstrate their control over the Hungarians. At the tip of the Citadel is the Liberation Monument which was built in 1947 as a symbol of peace and victory over fascism.

After descending the hill we crossed the Chain Bridge to the Pest side where we remained for the duration. We explored the old parts of town, stopped at a café on a beautiful pedestrian way, visited a 550 year old church and then headed back to the room to get ready for the evening.

That night we had a traditional dinner at a recommended restaurant. And of course, while in Hungary, one must have Hungarian Goulash which we did. But the highlight of the trip was to come; a nighttime cruise on the Danube. The ship consisted of both indoor and outdoor seating, so we chose the latter. The fact that each seat had a blanket was a plus as it was in the 50s by this time. The premise of the trip is a float up and down the river passing the major points of interest in the city. While passing the sites, a large flat-screen monitor showed video of the interiors of the buildings we were passing. And all the time there was an audio tour piped to us via the headsets. The city is pretty during the day but it really stands out at night. Someone recently told me that it was in the top five cities to see at night. (Let me guess the others: Paris, New York, Vienna and ?)

After the cruise we visited a few local establishments to enjoy getting ripped-off when buying refreshments. (Not really, but I am still mad for tipping the barman and then realizing that the price we paid included service. Learning #1…always ask for a receipt before paying.)

As the evening came to an end, we ran into an American who proceeded to mention some other places we should check out. But as Shane and Jim had an early flight the next morning we went to the room instead. (I think his name was Bill.)

The next day I went out for breakfast as I had a 2 p.m. flight. Although it was cold, I ate my eggs at an outside café while I watched the early risers and shopkeepers going about their routines.

Budapest is a great city with a lot of history. Compared to Prague, the architecture was not as pretty. But the river made it special in its own way. Compared to Vienna it was not as sophisticated or cultured. But compared to Krakow, it played second fiddle.

(The Castle on Castle Hill.)