Brian's Excellent Krakow Adventure

Musings from Brian Desmond Issing as he lives the life of a Cracovian. (Someone who lives in Krakow, Poland.)

Monday, February 27, 2006

Better Than Zywiec Bars and Restaurants

There's a group of us here who believe that one of the local pivos, Zywiec, is worse that Old Milwaukee. In fact, I'd rather have an OM than a Zywiec. Because we dislike Zywiec so much, we go out of our way to find places that serve something better i.e. Okocim, Tyskie, Lech, or any of the number of Hefe-Weizzens. So to answer that oft-asked question of "Where is there an Okocim bar", I present the following list:

Places That Serve Okocim on Tap:

Zakopianki Cafe (our favorite)
Sukiennice
Philo
Shisha
Radisson SAS Lobby Bar: Salt & Co.
Rooster
Stainja in Kazimierz
Pizzeria Trzy Papryczki
Voyages in Kazimierz
U Szkota
Kawiarnia Europejska
Gruzinskie Checzapuri
Szaro in Kazimierz
Chlopskie Jadlo
Europejska Kawiarnia
Grill Cafe
Ratuszowa
Pod Oslona Nieba: pl. Dominikanski 6
Poezja Smaku: ul. Jagiellonska 5
Krzysztofory: ul. Szczepanska 2
Sphinx
Explorers' Club - CLOSED


Places That Serve Other Brands on Tap But Not Okocim:

Paese
Del Papa
Irish Arms
Nic Nowegos
Trattoria Soprano
Oldsmobil Pub and Restaurant
Non Iron – Has a micro-brewed Amber Ale on tap for 5 zloty
Manekin
Pod Sloncem
Brasserie in Kazimierz
Miod Malina
Awarnia
Paparazzi
Black Cafe

Saturday, February 18, 2006

Skiing in Poland



In January I had the opportunity to go downhill skiing near the Slovakian Border. The ski resort community of Bialka Tatrzanska, located in the Tatra Mountains, is about 100 km south of Krakow. (These mountains are part of the Carpathian Mountain chain.) This area is the ski capital of Poland and is dotted w/ many ski runs. In fact, the 2006 World Cup Ski Jump contest was held in a nearby town called Zakopane.

I drove (yes, Brian drove in Poland) the 2 1/2 hours in a convoy of other people from I.P. and arrived at the mountain (approx. 3300') before Noon. The ski rental was $8.00 and the lift ticket around $16.00 for the afternoon. I also took an hour private ski lesson, from an English speaking instructor, for another $15.00.

It had been 10 years since I last skied and I had forgotten more than I remembered so the lesson was a good idea. The lift lines were short, the views beautiful and the temperature hovered around 30 degrees F. I also fell down a lot.

After an afternoon of skiing I called my brother-in-law Peter from the foot of the slopes to brag that I had just skied in Poland. (He had once spent a week skiing in Europe so he could appreciate it.) We next drove to the place where we would be staying overnight. I would like to call it a hotel, motel, B&B, campsite, etc., but it was not like any of those. They call it a "pensioner" and it was a cross between a youth hostel and the YMCA hotels of old. Think of a boarding house that was freshly remodeled w/ numerous rooms upstairs. The owner's family lives on the main and cellar levels and they rent out the rest of the rooms. Some have bathrooms and some share a bath in the hall. We rented 6 rooms for the 15 of us and 4 of us guys shared one room. You had to bring your own towels, cups, soap.....kind of reminded me of camping. It cost us $15.00 a piece for the night.

After settling in there we went to the resort town of Zakopane and proceeded to look for a restaurant that had room for 15. After walking for 30 minutes we located one in the cellar of an old building where we experienced some good "Highlander" food. After dinner we hailed some taxis for the ride back to our rooms. But before getting in the taxis for the ride back, my Polish friends asked the drivers to drop us off at a bar that was close to our pensioner. The place we wound up at was a newly-built Highlander lodge with 4 fireplaces and a dance floor. The first thing my friends did was to buy a bottle of vodka. You see, they drink vodka like we drink wine. We caroused for a bit then at 1:30 a.m. someone had the novel idea to have a snowball fight. So a dozen of us rushed outside and proceeded to make snowballs. If you have never seen 12 adults have a snowball fight in the wee hours of the morning, you have not lived. In turn, each person was ganged up on until all had been attacked. When we ran out of snow .... just kidding. Within 20 minutes it was too cold to stay outside any longer so we retreated to the warmth of the inside and the 4 fireplaces. Not much later we hired a cab to take us home.

The next day we awoke to 10 degrees F. and 4 inches of new snow covering the cars. (It's been a long time since I had to use a snow brush.) After clearing the cars we left for home w/ a stop at the local McDonalds for breakfast and gas. I mean .... we stopped for petrol and something to eat at McDonalds. Except, they don't serve an American style breakfast so it was just kawa (coffee) and a blueberry muffin.

The return trip to Krakow was a long 4 hour journey on a winding 2 lane road. The traffic was so bad that we were stopped long enough to get out of the car to smear snow on the windshield to clean it. You see the temperature continued to drop and the windshield washer nozzles froze.

All in all it was a great weekend and even better now that I can tell people that I skied in Poland.

Brian's First Posting on Krakow



Greetings to my family and friends. This is my initial posting to my new blog. For those new to this, a blog (short for Web log) is a sort of Web site where anyone can post comments on just about any topic. Mine will be mostly about my time in Krakow, Poland and other parts of Europe.

For those who do not know, I have accepted a short-term assignment w/ International Paper to lead the training and implementation phases of the new I.P. Global Customer Service Center in Krakow. I have spent 18 weeks here, on and off, since July and will be here for the next 6-9 months. (I move into an apartment next week.)

What a primo gig to be assigned here. When people think about Europe, Poland does not usually come to mind. But this place is something special. Poland is the 9th largest European country in terms of area and Krakow is the second largest city in Poland with about 757,000 people. It is also the cultural and educational center of Poland with its 105,000 university students and the 3rd oldest university in Europe. (Jagiellonian U. was founded in 1364.) In addition, Pope John Paul II was the bishop of Krakow for 20 years.


The food is mostly very good to excellent, inexpensive, plentiful and familiar to us Americans. The beer (piwo) is also plentiful, refreshing and inexpensive. (Think $1.90 for .5 liters (17 ounces.) And that's in the touristy market square.) The people are very friendly and willing to go out of their way to help you. And being in a university city, most young and/ or educated people speak English so it is easy to get around here. (I am learning a lot of Polish and can carry on short conversations.)

The one sad part is that I am away from Toni, and my friends, for an extended period of time. Toni and I did spend a solid week of our November vacation here and she enjoyed it immensely. She too could never have imagined being here and is looking forward to returning this March and each quarter after that.

This is enough for my initial posting. So come back often as I hope to post new comments, photos or articles about my experiences every few weeks. Who knows, maybe you will be inspired to visit. (I already have 2 sets of friends making the trip to Krakow this spring and summer.)