Café Zakopianka – April 19, 2011

I had the most enjoyable evening after work on Tuesday. After dropping my things off in my room I headed over to my favorite spot, Café Zakopianka. (http://www.estrada.net.pl/?wiadomosci=13) As we ended work an hour early I wanted to get one more visit in before I left town.


As I walked up at 9:15 p.m., Marek and Ursula were standing in the doorway as if they were waiting on me. They invited me in and I became the sole customer at that hour. They close at 10 p.m. in the off-season.) I ordered my usual and sat down to read the day’s Commercial Appeal. (Yes, the current edition is slid under my hotel room door each day. Isn’t technology wonderful?) After finishing my piwa I told Ursula that this might be my last night here as I was leaving on Friday morning. We chatted a bit and she translated to Polish for Marek. Since he knew that I worked for I.P. he asked me my thoughts on the future of paper. (He is a former actor and a big supporter of artists who print on paper.) He then invited me into another room where he showed me all of the graphic arts that are displayed on paper. In his mind paper would always be around. I agreed with him. Then he went to his laptop and showed me photos of posters that he has created detailing the 185 years of his building and surrounding area. Come June he will have these tableaus displayed under the arcade of his garden. As it will run for three months I hope that I get to return to see it. Then he delved deeper into his digital photo albums and showed me photos of the restoration of the building in 1996-97. I had seen some of them on his Web site but he showed all of them to me.

For historical purposes, the building was constructed in 1826 and served as a coffee shop beginning in 1831. Around 1875 it became a departure point for carriage rides to Zakopane, the mountain and now ski resort in the Tatra Mountains. (In 2005 I took a bus there and it was a 2 hour ride.) I now have learned the origin to the name of his café. When he took possession of the building it had been vacant for six years and had been a pizza place prior to that. He showed me a photo of a sign that said “Italian Pizza” which places the shop to the Communist era.

So, he took upon a complete rehabilitation of the building as it was in, as Marek said, “a horrible and catastrophic” condition. The original owners would be proud of what he had done. But he was not finished. In 2009 he replaced all of the windows and doors and made them full size to restore the building’s façade to its original look. In reality, there were no doors just archways. The architectural design is considered an arcade.

He next showed me photographs of himself by the monument down the path and just north of his building. He was 5 years of age which places that photo to 1960. After talking about the building he went on to show me digital photos of himself as an actor and then of his recent vacations. (Marek is a great photographer with a really good eye for composition and color.) These photos were of his holiday in Gdynia, Sopot and Hel on the Baltic Sea near Gdansk. It looked a lot like the Emerald Coast on the Florida panhandle. He even said that the sand was a beautiful color of white.

Amidst the photos were images of his German shepherd, Hugo. I had finally learned his name. (While I perused the photos Hugo slept quietly at Marek’s foot.) And he also had photos of his two cars and a travel trailer, which he bought in the U.S. The cars are a 1991 Chrysler Minivan and a more recent Jeep Cherokee. He surely loves that van.

It was an interesting conversation as Marek spoke in both Polish and French so I found myself uttering a few words in both languages. Of course, Ursula was the linchpin to this conversation as if not for her I would not have been standing at his laptop for an hour. I had thoroughly enjoyed this time in the company of a proud Pole.

Before I left I typed my blog’s URL into his laptop and showed them where I had mentioned their café last week. Marek was happy to see that.

After saying “dobranoc” I left the café on such a high that I immediately called Toni to regale her with my evening. I had finally peaked behind the curtain of the Café Zakopianka and had been invited into the parlor for a history lesson on the café, Krakow and Marek. And it was a great feeling knowing that I had. In just one hour I had learned the names of Ursula, Hugo and the origin of the name of the café. And it had just been two weeks ago that I had learned Marek’s name. And I owe all of this to Ursula who provided the translation services for me to get to know Marek and his café to the level I had desired since 2006.

I had truly come home again.

Brian Meets Monika and Rob – Saturday Morning – April 16, 2011

The first Polish national I ever met was Monika Lux-Huserik who was introduced to me by Ellen Meyer. Monika had recently joined I.P. and was working with Ellen on the old EDGE operating model project. She introduced me to Monika and Rob at the 2005 Memphis in May Sunset Symphony at Tom Lee Park. At that time I knew that I would be going to Krakow and told this to Monika. She was quite pleased to hear this and offered to meet for lunch to tell me all about her native land. I subsequently did so and a friendship soon followed. She went on to meet with my training staff to give us some pointers for use in Krakow.

Fast forward almost six years and Monika has recently taken a job in Krakow and she, Rob and their son Robby had moved over here in January. So, on Saturday we met for a walk around the city and lunch on the Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square).

We had an enjoyable time walking slowly around Krakow (Robby was in a stroller) catching up on what had changed in the city as well as their efforts to find a condo to purchase. (Tough going so far.)

After lunch we walked around the Easter Market in the square and then parted. Monika to go home to wash windows and me to have a “piwa”. Travel can be easy at times!

It was good seeing them and learning more about Poland from a local.

Brian Sees the President – Sunday Afternoon - April 17, 2011

After Palm Sunday Mass I went with my friends, Jacek and Sue, on an outing to the Festival of Palms and Crafts, in Lipnica Murowana, to see the Tallest Palm Competition. Each Palm Sunday this town, about an hour east of Krakow, puts on a competition to see who can make the tallest Easter season palm. Now, over here the palms are not the thin reeds we are used to in the States but rather they are an assemblage of dried flowers with some small amount of palm mixed in. Upon first look one thinks that people are carrying around a magic wand of flowers but in reality people purchase or make these for blessing at Palm Sunday Mass.

But in Lipnica Murowana the people go all out in constructing these edifices. In doing so they use long willow branches, cross-banded by more willow, to create support systems that look like the cables that hold up a suspension bridge. Then they decorate them with flowers. The winner is the person with the tallest palm that can remain upright and this year’s winner stood at over 36 meters, 4 cm. (The statue, hidden by the palms, is of the Blessed Simon (Szymon) of Lipnica raised in 1913.)

Then the winners were announced on the stage set up in the square. And who was passing out these awards but none other than the President of Poland Bronisław Komorowski.

The event is well known in Poland as many people attend and it made the local T.V. news programs. There were even many tour buses and so many cars that we had to park in a field much like one does for the Memphis in May BBQ Contest. The square was full of vendors selling Easter items, local food, arts and craft items and helium-filled balloons of Bugs Bunny and Dora the Explorer. (Another great export of the U.S.!!!)

After leaving, we had a delicious lunch overlooking a castle. I ordered a form of pork goulash served over a large potato pancake. It was the size of a large dinner plate and cost the equivalent of $4.50. Things are surely cheaper in the country.

We next drove toward Krakow and stopped off at a little known sculpture with a tie to Memphis.

Brian Meets Elvis – Late Sunday Afternoon - April 17, 2011

You may have wondered why you have not heard of any Elvis sightings in the U.S. recently. Well, that’s because he is in Krakow.

On a little side street, outside of the city center, is a tribute to The King, “Elvisa Presleya”. They even named an “avenue” after him, al. Elvisa Presleya. The statue was provided by the Krakow Elvis fan club and is typical of all things Elvis in that there were flowers laid at the base.

I had mentioned this sculpture to Jacek and, since it was along the way home, he took us there. The sculpture is actually a life-size head of Elvis floating in a silicon bath. Someone had also painted his hair blue. (Blue Moon Over Kentucky, Blue Christmas, Blue Suede Shoes. You get it now?) As we stood around for our photo shoot the locals looked at us with bewilderment but I was extremely pleased to get a photo with a man with a tie to Memphis.

Brian Visits Friends – Sunday Evening - April 17, 2011

On Sunday evening I met up with my friends Kinga and Wojciech for dinner in Kazimierz. I On Sunday evening I met up with my friends Kinga and Wojciech for dinner in Kazimierz. I was looking forward to catching up with them as I had last seen them in 2008 and they were subsequently married 11 months ago.

I am happy to report that their greeting card business is slowly taking off and that her architecture business has landed a prominent hotel developer for which she will be the project manager for two of his new hotel projects in Poland.

As for dinner I had a very good stuffed bell pepper which was unlike what Toni makes. (And she makes good ones.) To begin with it was a red pepper that was filled with rice, roasted vegetables, and parmesan and mozzarella cheeses. And they served it with the lid of the pepper propped on top.

After dinner we walked along the new footbridge over the Wisla River and into Podgorze where we stopped at a café to continue talking. It was over dinner that I learned more about the wedding customs in Poland. Although they did not have the three day party that is typical of “country weddings’ they did have a party after the wedding. But before that they had a wedding ceremony at Salwator Church followed by a dinner for close family members. Then it was off to the reception at Przegorzaly Tower. The reception was a long affair beginning at 8 p.m. and ending at 4 a.m. the next day. And Kinga and Wojciech were obliged to be present for the entire 8 hours. Luckily, they had a room at the Tower and were not heading off on a honeymoon immediately. It sounded like a really nice time. And from what I can tell they are very much still in love as they end their first 12 months of matrimony.

After that we walked back towards the Holiday Inn as we talked about their greeting card business. (Shameless plug: http://www.krstudio.pl/kolekcja.html)

It was good seeing them and catching up on 2 ½ years worth of news.

Brian and Toni Vacation in Krakow

I have returned to Krakow and it is good to be home. I am writing this at the end of a 6 day vacation and the beginning of a two week work assignment.

Toni and I arrived here on the 6th after travelling 21 hours. Luckily, all of our connections went well and our luggage arrived with us. After exiting the airport terminal the first change we noticed was that the taxis had been relocated because of the new multi-story parking garage built in the main parking lot. So, getting to the taxi was actually easier.

Riding in the Mercedes-Benz taxi at 140, k.p.h. that is, is always thrilling. (That’s 87 m.p.h.) After arriving we settled into our room, took a shower, a short nap and out we went to walk and have dinner. But first I had to go to my favorite café, in all of Europe, Café Zakopianka. There I was recognized by Marek the owner who asked how long it had been since I was last there. (His female friend translated for me.) After ordering two of his finest piwo (beers) we settled in with two large Okocims, my favorite Pilsner beer.

Marek had extensively refurbished the main room since I was last here. All of the tables and chairs have been replaced. There are new drapes, a new piano and he uses new plates and cups. He also de-cluttered the place of a few items and no longer has art for sale. In effect, it looks more upscale than it was. And he has raised his prices to boot. A large piwa (17 oz.) is now 12 zloty. ($4.44) That’s almost twice as much as a special I saw on the Main Square. But it is worth it. As of Sunday Toni and I had been there 6 times.

What makes this café so special to me are numerous things. It is one of only three cafes along The Planty. (The park that rings the old defensive walls of the city.) Inside is an intimate setting that recreates cafes of old. There is nice French or jazz music playing, candles on each table, an old espresso machine on the counter, old and new art on the walls, newspapers hanging from the typical rack, and two large windows to people-watch from. And in the nicer weather one can sit under umbrellas on the patio and be even closer to the people and dogs frolicking about. (We were able to do that one afternoon after we circumnavigated the entire two kilometer Planty.) There were several items that remained unchanged. The wood burning stove is still in the corner. One German shepherd is still lounging around although walking more slowly than last time. And the newspaper stand is still there. Oh yeah, and the bike rental place. This Marek knows how to make money.

As Toni and I sat there Wednesday evening we were ensconced in what is so special about Krakow. Magical is how Toni puts it. Here we were thousands of miles from home, in a lovely old café, sipping my favorite piwa while watching people walk by. At one point someone was pulling a suitcase from the direction of the train station and Toni recalled us doing the same when we returned from Vienna in August of 2006. What fond memories. So, now you know why we made it to this café each day.

Toni and I did more than just sit and drink. We did eat some, well, a lot. For Wednesday dinner I wanted to take Toni to a favorite Polish restaurant called Klasyka Polska. Wasn’t I surprised when I could not find it on ul. Tomasza. We walked right past the entrance because the place had changed names. This place made it to the top of my list of Polish restaurants after my colleague and friend Cary and I had dinner there one night in 2008. We started with blini with an assortment of caviar. Now, before you ask about the cost of such a dish let me tell you that the appetizer was about seven dollars. After that night that place became the start of our Polish progressive dinner later in our stay.

So, Toni and I walked into the now named Restauracja w Starej Kuchni. Besides the name the menu had changed and the rooms were decorated in a different way. Toni and I perused the menu and ordered some bigos (a “hunters’ stew” made from cabbage, sauerkraut, juniper berries and several meats) and pierogi (stuffed dumplings that are pan-roasted.) The meal was also served with some tasty bread and an herb butter spread. The food was excellent. The tab, which included two piwo, was the equivalent of eighteen dollars. What a bargain.

By 8 p.m. we were nodding off at the table so we left the restaurant and headed back to the hotel where we collapsed in bed by 8:30. That’s the end of day one.

On Thursday we set out to see what was new and a lot was. We began at the National Museum in the Sukiennice which is the museum in the top of The Cloth Hall. (c. 1555) In 2006 the museum had closed for a complete renovation. The artwork was moved to other locations and the galleries were redone as part of a nine million Euro restoration. And it needed it. What is now available is a top-notch museum with bright galleries, audio guides, video displays and the ability to use your iPod to get info on selected pieces. The museum chronicles Polish art through the centuries and has some impressive artwork. Toni was enamored with several items so much so that she purchased a book with all of the works of art in it.

Added to the Sukiennice is a terrace café that overlooks the Basilica of the Holy Virgin Mary, aka St. Mary’s. This is a must-visit café for the view. This whole package is another example of EU money being put to good use. Well, Norway, Spain and Germany may not think so but I do.

Later that evening we attended a classical music concert in St. Adalbert’s church. (c. 1618.) which is our favorite church as it is one of the oldest in Krakow. Although the current building is from the 17th c. it is built on top of two others dating back to the 10th c. It may also be the smallest church in town as it fits about 40 people.

The music was presented by a quartet of former Academy of Music students and was comprised of three to 5 minute selections from famous composers. We heard pieces from Brahms, Beethoven, Bizet, Chopin and even Frank Lloyd Webber, John Williams, George Gershwin and Glenn Miller! The latter sure could have used a clarinet. All in all a great set of 15 pieces performed in a very intimate and acoustically sound venue. I recommend it.

On Friday we visited the new Rynek Underground archeological exhibit beneath the Rynek Glowny (Main Market). (www.PodziemiaRynku.com) For four dollars we spent 3 hours in this brand new museum. When I first arrived here in 2005 they had just started an archeological dig under the Cloth Hall and the Market Square. For a year I watched them peel back the bricks of the square and expose the original stalls of the earlier Cloth Hall. I watched with great interest as I love archeology and I had heard that they intended to make a museum out of this history. Each time I returned to Krakow I learned more about the impending museum and dreamed to one day visit it. And this time I received my wish.

In its early days Krakow was a trading center as roads to all of the major cities pass through here. Polish merchants would travel afar to purchase cloth which they would then sell in Krakow. Hence the name, Cloth Hall. But also sold here were metals, spices, food, armament, leather items, candles, etc. Each guild was located in its own building or stall.

And what a job they had done. The museum is entirely underground and covers the area beneath the Cloth Hall and a large swath of the Market Square. (The present Market Square is about 10 feet higher today than a millennia ago.) The first thing you encounter is a movie projected onto a screen composed of water vapor. After that the trail leads you in a chronological history of the previous market squares. At each stop there are English and Polish descriptions. But at others there are touch screens that allow you to page through info in 8 languages. But the real thrill was seeing history. During the dig they had uncovered the original cobblestone paths that crisscrossed the square. Sometimes it was not cobblestones but just rubble that made the path. But these early Poles were engineers too as there were wooden curbs, culverts, fresh water pipes and sewage gutters. Also on display were the burned remains of some of the original wooden buildings. One could see the charred embers that formed the foundations. In another area were the skeletal remains of a burial site. In fact, they had uncovered many cemeteries around the Square. (Each church had its own.) But the best part was the raised walkway over the stalls that formed the largest of the markets prior to the present Cloth Hall. These were the same stalls that I had seen in person as they performed the dig in 2005-06.

The walkway, made of a thick glass floor, was suspended on the thick stone walls that had separated the stalls. Every 20 feet there was a craft-specific station that displayed a multitude of items uncovered during the dig. A very interesting way to display artifacts.

As I left the museum I felt that it was the best one I had seen in all of my years here. The fact that I had seen them uncover this find made the museum far more enjoyable for me. Little did I know back in 2005 that I would be back in 6 years to see the fruits of the archeologists’ labor.

That ends our third day in Krakow. More to come.